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Wildflower meadow creation is a long-term project! Thorough preparation of the ground before sowing, and intensive aftercare management during the first year, will be repaid with much greater success over the years to follow. These guidelines are intended for sites too small to be grazed by animals. Poor soils have the greatest potential.

Seed sources
Ideally use seed that has been collected from traditionally managed High Weald meadows. Locally collected seed can be ordered through the Weald Meadows Initiative . Wildflower seed collected locally consists of strains that are better adapted to the soils and conditions of the Weald. Check with the supplier that the mix uses non-competitive grasses such as Bents, Sweet Vernal Grass and Crested Dogs-tail. If you live near a traditional grassland it may be possible to get permission from the owner to hand collect species for creating your own. The recommended seed rate varies but 2-5 grams/square metre with a ratio of approximately 80% grasses to 20 % of wildflowers. For planting on a larger scale the rate is 6-8 kg per acre of Native Origin Seed. If you need to keep the cost down you can use 6-8 kg per acre of catalogue native grass mix and 1 kg of predominantly wildflower seed.

Choosing the site
Thin soils with low fertility will support more species of wildflower, as they are less likely to be swamped by vigorous grasses and weeds like thistles, nettles, and docks. Slopes are useful as fertility is washed to the bottom providing good conditions on the slope itself. Damp patches will support yet more species.

Preparation
Rank or dead grasses and perennial weeds need to be removed and the regrowth killed off down to the roots. Appropriate biodegradable herbicides (e.g. Round Up) are most effective, but purely mechanical methods (hoeing) can be satisfactory where only annuals or young plants are present
A fine seed bed should then be created in the spring or summer and the area allowed to green up with weed seedlings naturally. These weeds need to be eliminated once again with a herbicide ensuring that the soil surface is not disturbed again (or more weeds will appear). No fertilisers should be used.

Non-chemical preparation
Carpet to plastic mulch can be placed on the ground to kill weeds and grass before planting. Removing the turf is also another option; this has the added benefit of removing some of the topsoil and nutrients. The third option is to simply scarify (cut the grass as short of possible) the ground either using a strimmer or mower to create bare patches for the new seed. Some of these options may not be suitable for larger scale meadow creation.

Sowing
Once you have finally created a bare weed-free seed bed it may need to be firmed down to close any cracks and prevent seed being washed down too deep by rain. The wildflower seed should then be scattered on to the surface and gently firmed in. Autumn sowing is the most reliable time. Some species will not appear until the following year while others need several years to become established. Their appearance will depend on good long-term management.

Management
During the first summer after sowing you should not allow plants to grow up and flower. In year 1 some flowers and weeds will grow much faster than others. It is essential that these are controlled by regular mowing. All mowings need to be removed. Cutting to keep the sward short will prevent vigorous species completely swamping smaller and later germinating species.
In year 2 and beyond the cutting regime will need to mimic traditional hay meadow management every year. This is to cut in late July after most of the species have flowered and set seed and then cut the regrowth in October or November, ensuring that the cuttings are removed each time.
Each year the meadow will appear to change as the various grasses and flowers take turns to dominate, before eventually settling down to a more stable balance. Even then different weather conditions can bring changes as plants react differently to changes in soil moisture. As long as the meadow is cut regularly twice a year and the cuttings removed, the meadow should continue to develop. No fertilisers should ever be used.

Credits: Farming & Wildlife Advisory Group (FWAG) & Weald Meadows Initiative (WMI)

Web Links

Weald Meadows Initiative - Advice & local provendance seed supplier

Wildflower Grassland creation - Floralocale